We never had a cold snap all winter except for a few below freezing days which were not enough to freeze the entire log. That experiment was abandoned. But there was still a pile of oak to deal with and projects looming...
So Yngivald and I got together, at relatively short notice, with more power at our disposal on April 14th to get the job done. It was an experiment in itself as I didn't know how a 14" electric chainsaw and 14A circular saw would handle it.
First, start with sharp blades - duh!
Second, plan how you want to cut. Much of the oak was going to be used for kubb sets so we started with the chainsaw to cut some of the oak into short chunks which later can be cut into the blocks.
For the material to be made into planks it is very useful to have the log split lengthwise in nice straight lines. But our experience is that the log doesn't cooperate. It was obvious that the chainsaw we had was not up to the task of ripping the logs lengthwise. Also, it is back-breaking work.
So we tried cutting a line with the circular saw, as deep as it would go in a straight line along the length of the log and down the end. Then drive wedges along the cut lines, starting at the narrow end, or the end opposite any major knots. This was important.
What we ended up with were very nicely split pieces that would need minimal dressing and provide a good starting point for further splitting to get planks.
Good post Doug... I'll throw in my two bits worth.
ReplyDeleteAfter and already long day, I'm glad we decided to attempt the larger sections of oak. Despite using some modern technology, we sure learned a whole lot about splitting logs the old-fashioned way and we were pleased at our success with using wooden wedges. Compared to our earlier efforts, these sections split like dried firewood. I would call phases 1 and 2 to be a success in Experimental Archaeology and would make any future attempts much more efficient.
So to add to our Collective Wisdom, I'll try to summarize as many "Rules of Thumb" as I can think of:
•learn how to read the wood
•bumps on the outer trunk might be overgrown knots (avoid like the plague)
•some woods may be more difficult to split when green and/or wet
•try to work in straight-grained lengths only
•split through the centre-line as a diameter or radius split
•generally; split from top-of-tree to bottom-of-tree
•generally; split from straight-grained first with knots at the far end
•try to avoid knots whenever possible
•prepare the top surface by removing the bark and scoring the length of the split
•use numerous steel wedges on the end-grain to start an control the split
•use lots, and lots, and lots of wedges
•ensure a variety of small-angled and wide angled wedges
•use narrow wedges first and progress to wider wedges later
•try not to strand wedges in the split… when a wedge is not longer effective, exchange it with a wider wedge
•when the split opens up, cut loose all the interconnecting striations between the two halves… this could be with an axe, chisel, or other special tool
•let the wedges do the work and be patient
In 20/20 hindsight, many of these points seem very obvious… Experimental Archaeology is full of BFOs (Blinding Flashes of the Obvious).
In our modern age, where we are more reliant on power tools, we are more used to forcing our will upon the wood. Using traditional methods, a deeper understanding of the inner nature and properties of the wood is required. It is this deeper understanding that enabled the Norse to build their famous ships and other wooden miracles.
Yngivald…
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